Tender, mild and lean, kid goat is emerging as a new, delicious meat source that’s super-sustainable too. James Whetlor of Cabrito, the award-winning restaurant suppliers of quality goat meat, shares his BBQ recipe for kid goat skewers. Needless to say, we’re hooked.
I am a relatively new convert to live fire cooking. Years of cooking in restaurants have meant I’m more accustomed to gas burners and ovens, but since my ‘retirement’ from the kitchen, I’ve been able to explore barbecuing a bit more. With the help of the generous and enthusiastic online BBQ community, I’ve added a few more skills to my cooking and a few more ovens to my garden.
Goat responds beautifully to smoke and fire. The meat is robust enough to stand up to the flavour imparted by wood and charcoal, and its sweetness offers a lovely contrast. All these marinades below can also be used for chops or other quick-cooking cuts, so please experiment! If you are using wooden rather than metal skewers, it’s best to soak them in water for at least 30 minutes before using so they don’t catch fire.
As good as this recipe is, it’s only half the story. There is something about getting outside and cooking that turns a lunch or dinner into a gathering and an event. It strips away the formality of eating, making it more relaxed and convivial, be it for two people or ten. So invite some friends round, have a cook-out, and enjoy yourself.
BBQ kid goat skewers with 4 punchy marinades
Makes 6–8 skewers
Mix whichever marinade you are using, following the method outlined below, with 600–800g diced kid goat (cut into 3–4cm cubes), and leave to marinate for at least an hour. Anything up to 24 hours (in the fridge) is fine – the meat will just take on more flavour. Thread the marinated meat onto skewers and season with salt and pepper. Cook over a hot barbecue, under a grill or in a griddle pan for about 3 to 4 minutes on each side – you want them to be just cooked through and still juicy on the inside, although they can be cooked as pink as you like.
This Caribbean-influenced marinade is probably the flavour people most associate with goat. Removing the seeds from the Scotch bonnets will reduce the heat, or you could have a cold beer to hand. Serve the skewers with hot sauce and sweet potatoes or rice.
Put the following ingredients into a small food processor: 1 teaspoon ground allspice, 1 teaspoon ground ginger, 1 teaspoon ground black pepper, ½ teaspoon ground cinnamon, ½ teaspoon ground nutmeg, 1 teaspoon dried thyme, 2 fresh or dried bay leaves, ½ bunch of trimmed and finely chopped spring onions, 1 finely chopped Scotch bonnet chilli (take care when handling), 1 tablespoon brown sugar, 1 tablespoon dark soy sauce, juice of 1 lime and 2 tablespoons rum (optional). Blend to a paste, then use to marinate the diced meat.
2. Pinchos morunos
Pinchos morunos are inspired by Moorish cuisine, and are popular in the Andalusia and Extremadura regions of Spain. Serve these skewers with a green salad, lemon wedges, crusty bread and aïoli.
Mix together 1 teaspoon hot or sweet pimenton (Spanish paprika), 1 teaspoon ground cumin, 1 teaspoon dried oregano, ½ teaspoon ground fennel seeds, 1 crushed garlic clove and 1 tablespoon olive oil.
Mix 1 small bunch of finely chopped thyme leaves, 1 teaspoon sweet paprika, 3 crushed garlic cloves, 50ml red wine and 50ml olive oil. Add the diced meat, stir to coat and leave to marinate. Before skewering, strain the meat, reserving the marinade, and mix the grated zest and juice of 1 lemon into the drained marinade. Brush the skewers with the lemon juice and marinade mixture as they cook. Serve wrapped in flatbreads with yoghurt sauce.
Use any diced meat here, but I like diced breast for this. The spices really cut through the fat.
Mix the diced meat with 1 tablespoon of Shaoxing wine, sake or dry sherry wine (if you don’t have it, you can skip it) and 1 tablespoon vegetable oil. Mix together 1 tablespoon coarsely ground toasted cumin seeds, 1–2 teaspoons dried chilli flakes, 1 teaspoon coarsely ground Sichuan peppercorns and 1 teaspoon coarsely ground fennel seeds, then sprinkle half of the mixture over the meat. Stir to coat and leave to marinate. Sprinkle over the rest of the spice mix as the kebabs cook.
Excited to try more kid goat? Check out the full range on farmdrop.com, get inspired with more delicious goat recipes, and find out why it’s the new ethical meat we should all be eating more of.
Recipe from GOAT: COOKING AND EATING by James Whetlor (Quadrille, £20.00) Photography: Mike Lusmore