One of the prime factors behind his success is the freshness in all of his wines, something he achieves by picking earlier. "I can only pick early due to better viticulture", he says. He is looking for the varietal 'stamp' rather than 'varietal character' in his wines, hence his move to blends such as the Grenache/Shiraz/Touriga, where the sum is greater than the component parts. And because of this fresher 'stamp', he is looking to reduce the oak influence in his wines so has, like many of the best producers, moved to larger, more neutral oak. It is difficult to pick out a star among his wines. The Aromatico is a fragrant, flavoursome blend of Gewürztraminer, Riesling and Pinot Gris. The Grenache/Shiraz/Touriga has brilliant colour and is fresh and lifted on the nose with soft, supple tannins on the palate. His 'Field Street' Shiraz is plush and juicy with lovely earthy tannins, this wine expresses the breadth and purity of a McLaren Vale Shiraz. Of the Tempranillo/Touriga, Steve explains, "The more I work with Touriga, the bigger a part of this blend it becomes." His stand-alone Grenache is now viewed by James Halliday as Australia's greatest example of this wonderful variety. It is ripe and full with lovely grainy tannins on the palate. The Adelaide Hills Syrah has an aromatic lift and supple tannins. 'The Vale' is an old vine Grenache/Shiraz blend made from over 70-year-old vines, with rich black fruits on the palate and a silky texture. These wines in particular show how far Australian wine has come, and that road is being mapped by producers like Steve Pannell.