Cascina Borgatta

Cascina Borgatta

Emilio is a unique winemaker for many reasons. First, he is a rare example of someone that has dedicated his entire winemaking career to Dolcetto, a grape often found in the second or third wines of many producers in Piemonte. Whilst it typically has a reputation as an easy-going, fruity wine meant to be drunk young, the wines coming out of Emilio’s cellar couldn’t be more different. Structured, full bodied, complex, and aged in bottle for a minimum of 4 years prior to release, this is serious Dolcetto. This is a wine that shows what the grape can achieve when planted on prime soils (a combination of red clay as well as white ‘tuffo’), working with 60+ year old vines that have never seen chemicals, and treated with utmost care and respect. Second, Emilio has never changed the way that he makes his wine. Since the 1960s the wines have always been made as naturally as possible, with zero corrections or manipulations, always fermented with native yeasts, never fined nor filtered. A tiny sulphite addition is seen at fermentation, with none added at any point afterwards (none before bottling either), resulting in total levels in the finished wine that rarely reach 20mg/L. Tasting through old vintages of Emilio’s is fascinating, and totally annihilates the myths that both Dolcetto and low SO2 wines can’t age. Emilio and Maria Luisa have always worked under the radar, happy to sell most of their small production locally. In their old age and without much interest in technology, getting themselves ‘out there’ has not really been much a priority. It would be an absolute pity, however, for these wines not to be shared with the world. These are rustic wines ‘come si faceva una volta,’ a representation of tradition, of old methods, and of pure dedication. Wines infused with the energy of two of the kindest souls one is ever likely to meet.